4x4 = 2

Taking a firm grip on our basket fronted 2 wheelers we set off again in the morning to town, reassured that the packs of dogs on the road didn't bite.. The aim was to rent either a car or mopeds to get around and see some distant 'attractions.' After a small lunch we bumped into the hotel owner who took us to his friends who would let out a Suzuki jeep to us for much cheaper than the rental we'd just checked out - apart from one missing doorhandle this seemed like a snip. Leaving our hotel owned bikes at the shop - for further rental - we took off in the jeep, at a slow pace to start although in fairness this thing was hard work and power steering was our job as driver, not a standard feature. We set off for the Padeung Karen (Kayan) village of Ban Huai Seau Tao about 20km out of town, to our fortune the roads were straight forward so fears of getting lost soon got lost in the contours of fields, trees and shallow river crossings. The Kayan are a refugee tribe having left Burma to settle here around 10 years ago, they practice elongation of the neck through the use of bronze hoops increased over time or alternately the extending of the ear - flesh tunnels comes close in our understanding although the size and weights used here wouldn't suit all tastes..
The tribe in part follow their ancient religion dating back to before the days when they segregated from tribes in Mongolia to live in Burma, though Christianity has become popular due to the belief that Catholic white men were the younger brother (themselves being the eldest brother of all the tribes) bringing them the words of their own religious book; a rustic church sits atop a steep hill overlooking the village - we're unsure as to the religious importance of the neck or ear distortions but i doubt that this shift will affect the practice as it seems culturally important as well as providing a level of tourist intrigue [article from local paper in Hilltribe Museum, Chiang Rai filled in more. Link below.]
Selling crafts including fine hand made silk and cotton scarves, tops and bags, small figurines of animals and the villagers, plus postcards. As we arrived later in the day soon before we left this all seemed to take a step back as priorities changed and the village returned to normal; children, dogs and chickens running erratically about and food being prepared for dinner.

After enjoying that night probably the best seafood i've ever had the next day we set off early on a longer trip - 140km or so to Mae Surin for the Mexican Sunflower hill only in bloom around this time of year and also the National Park hosting Surin Waterfall. This was a simple path again but much more exhaustive in its distance. What a beautiful drive, roads should be like this everywhere to hell with convenience this was fun. Many tourists had come from the world over and more than usual from Bangkok holidaying to avoid the floods still affecting vast areas. The sunflowers cover patches of hillside but one in particular is coated, more for beauty than any real purpose - but it is a beautiful sight with forest and farmland eroded hills as far as the eye can see. We then carried on through the valley to the Mae Surin park, managing to bargain our entrance to one ticket for the car rather than 200 baht each. Although we couldn't get right down to the falls there were two viewing platforms cut out of the hillside opposite. It was around 180m in height and coming from what seemed a small stream made a wonder in freefall..
After having to call up and rent the car til the evening to prevent a panicked bit of speeding back to town we headed back and had another enormous fish meal for only a few pounds we settled down to our last night knowing we'd sorely miss the area in heading back to the city. Next morning we set off in a 10 seater jet - the pilot had a rear view mirror it was that small - with incredible views with the fresh morning air it made you wonder over the vastness how ever people claimed to be king and conqueror?! Touching down we had two days to shop and rest up before a week volunteering with elephants to the north.

Karen interview:
Www.Asiantribune.com/index.php?q=node/7588 1160621207886634
This was a shock to read but i feel that the village we visited was better tended and accomodating..